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Total Miles Walked = 2178.3 Only -0.00 Miles To Go!


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Thursday, September 24, 2009
Damascus
Location For The Night: Apple Tree B&B, Damascus, VA, trail mile 1,715.3
Miles Walked Today: 13.40
Day Number: 99

After a good night's sleep with no precipitation we broke camp and started walking at 7:05am. Our tents were actually dry. It was warm and sunny.

At 9:50am we met two northbound section hikers. They said Castle was still about an hour ahead of us. As a hiker she is all business.

At 12:30pm we entered Damascus, VA, home of Trail Days, the famous hikers' festival held annually each May. The AT runs right through this town, from one end to the other. We strolled into In The Country, the first restaurant we came to. We each had double quarter-pound cheeseburger platters, cokes (with a zillion re-fills) and two milk shakes each.

After lunch we walked the half-mile to downtown Damascus and checked in at Mount Rogers Outfitters. I had four boxes there: 1) A regular resupply box, 2) My bounce (or bump) box that contains items needed every 300-400 miles, 3) A special, next-day-air box containing long underwear (for upcoming cool nights) and a new umbrella (the old one is frayed and worn from rubbing on branches), 4) A surprise box to both Flaxseed and me from Brent, a Fort Worth, TX, attorney with ties to Murray, KY, and Shawnee Trails Boy Scout Council. He sent a big box of candy and nuts. Both are packed full of calories. Thanks Brent. This is the first gift box we've received.

Tom, the store manager, repaired Flaxseed's Marmot tent support and made me a lightweight belt for my hiking pants. Flax bought a long sleeve shirt. Tom (left) and Dave, the store's owner, are featured in today's photo.

While Flax and Tom worked on Flax's tent support I called around town to find us a room, and boy did I find a dandy. We walked one block from the outfitter to the Apple Tree B&B where Debbie Smith met us at the doorstep. She and husband Les got us situated in our room, washed and dried our clothes AND washed and dried our sleeping bags and stuff sacks. She has a front loading washer (the only way to machine wash a sleeping bag). Next, Les shuttled us a mile to the grocery. What a great place and what great folks. Debbie even agreed to serve breakfast at 7:00am tomorrow so we can stay on schedule.

We checked around town and looked in at The Place, a local Methodist church hostel, trying to find Castle. No luck. We haven't met her yet.

After some sorting and packing we walked across the street to Quincy's for supper. As we completed our meal a hard rain began. We waited for it to let up and dashed back to the Apple Tree. We ended the day with ice cream in our room. Flaxseed ate a pint. I had two pints and a pint of chocolate milk.

At 10:38pm it's still raining hard and more is predicted for the next two days. Such is life on the trail.

Today we walked from a stealth campsite at trail mile 1,701.9, to Damascus, VA, trail mile 1,715.3, a total of 13.4 miles for the day.

God bless each and every one of you.


Friday, September 25, 2009
Hello Tennessee
Location For The Night: Double Springs Shelter, trail mile 1,733.8
Miles Walked Today: 18.50
Day Number: 100

It rained throughout the night. We were happy to be in town. But, walk we must, so we were packed and at the breakfast table at 7:00am. Debbie treated us to fresh fruit, orange juice, coffee, cheese omelets, sausage, biscuits, and gravy. What a wonderful way to end our stay at the Apple Tree. Thanks Debbie and Les.

At 8:00am Flaxseed dropped in at Sundog Outfitters to check on size 10 1/2 EE shoes. They had none. After that, at 8:05am, we were on the trail walking out of Damascus.

At 10:01am we we entered Tennessee. This completed our 535 mile walk through the Virginia mountains. The Mount Rogers sign is the only border marker (photo). The old man in the photo is still putting one foot in front of the other trying to get to Georgia. The same goes for the old man that snapped the photo. Both are proud Virginia is behind them.

The trees are putting on more color now, but only in certain sections. Some areas are still green while others are speckled with vivid fall color.

At 5:10pm after a relatively easy day (except for heavy packs with four plus days of food) we chose to stop at Double Springs Shelter. We could see what was coming. It was shaping up to be a repeat of yesterday - a rainy night.

The sky was gray, cloudy and threatening all day, but we did not get any rain until after we got to the shelter and ate supper. It's 8:00pm now and fog is thick as pea soup, thunder is rumbling, and rain is starting. It's a good night to be in a building with a roof.

It appears Castle may have taken a zero today in Damascus today. She did not sign in at Abingdon Shelter where we ate lunch at 12:30pm, nor at Double Springs Shelter where we are camped tonight. Normally she signs in at all the shelters so we think we have passed her.

Today we walked from Damascus, VA, trail mile 1,715.3, to Double Springs Shelter, trail mile 1,733.8, a total of 18.5 miles for the day.

May God bless all of you.


Saturday, September 26, 2009
Drenched
Location For The Night: Watauga Lake Shelter, trail mile 1,755
Miles Walked Today: 21.20
Day Number: 101

Choosing a shelter instead of tents was a wise decision once again. A Cloud engulfed us all night long. Its humid presence resulted in constant dripping condensation. Some might call it rain. But, the trail beckoned and we began our walk at 7:15am.

Dripping condensation and high winds continued until noon. Then hard rain began in earnest and the wind continued.

At 1:35pm we stopped for lunch at Vandeventer Shelter. There, hunkered down for the duration, were five drenched section hikers. They were surprised (or considered us crazy) when we told them we were moving on after lunch.

And move on we did, walking through drenching rain all afternoon. But here's the thing. Once one is fully drenched, one cannot get any more drenched. One simply puts one drenched foot in front of the other and sloshes on down the trail. Furthermore, we cut our teeth on this stuff in Maine and New Hampshire.

We ended our day, wet but happy, at 5:40pm at Watauga Lake Shelter. Peppermint Patti (63) and Charlie Brown (59), hiking buddies from Knoxville, were already in residence there. They graciously made room for us and we settled in for the night.

I've named today's photo "Touchdown". The reason should be obvious. It was taken a couple of days ago. The PDA with its camera stays deep in the dry part of my pack on a day like today.

Thanks to all of you that have emailed prayers and encouragement. They really help. Keep them coming.

Today we walked from Double Springs Shelter, trail mile 1,733.8, to Watauga Lake Shelter, trail mile 1,755.0, a total of 21.2 miles for the day.

May God bless you all.


Sunday, September 27, 2009
Big Climbs
Location For The Night: Moreland Gap Shelter, trail mile 1,771.7
Miles Walked Today: 16.70
Day Number: 102

It rained until about 2:00am, stopped for a while, then started again at about 5:00am. We slept in waiting for it to stop. At 7:00am we decided it was not going to let up but started packing anyway. But, by the time we were ready to hit the trail it stopped and the sun was trying to break through. We were on the trail at 8:15am.

Today's photo is Charlie Brown and Peppermint Patti, last night's shelter mates. It was taken this morning before we left Watauga Lake Shelter.

We walked around Watauga Lake and stopped for water from a faucet at its Shook Branch Recreation Area. Then we started climbing.

By 9:30am it was evident that the rain and humidity was being replaced by cooler, drier air. This trend continued throughout the day.

Our morning climb was an 1,800' vertical jaunt up to Pond Flats. Pond Flats is at the top of a 3,780' mountain and we didn't see a pond up there. Some of these names are mysterious.

Next, we descended to 1,900' and began our climb to the top of White Rocks Mountain (4,206'). Along the way, at beautiful Laurel Fork Falls, we met several families from nearby Kingsport, TN, childhood home of my good friend, Gary Morse, of Paducah, KY. When I thought of Gary I thought of home. Lord, I wish I were there now.

In any case, the point of today's report is: We climb mountains every day. If you aspire to walk the Appalachian Trail you best be prepared to climb mountains - each and every day.

At 2:00pm we took a .3 mile side trip to Laurel Fork Lodge for lunch. It was closed for the year, but he nice lady there gave us two cokes.

After reaching the top of White Rocks Mountain we descended to Moreland Gap Shelter, arriving there at 6:35pm. We ate supper and were getting ready to retire when we were joined by two northbound section hikers. They are Jeepman and Catfish, both 71, and both from Covington, Georgia. They've been buddies since kindergarten. Jeepman got his name because he fell out of a jeep on St. Bart's Island in the Virgin Islands. Catfish got his name as a kid for being the best catfisherman around. When they reach Damascus, VA, in two or three days they will have section hiked the entire AT. It took them nine years.

Today we walked from Watauga Lake Shelter, trail mile 1,755.0, to Moreland Gap Shelter, trail mile 1,771.7, a total of 16.7 miles for the day.

May God bless each of you.


Monday, September 28, 2009
Two Bears
Location For The Night: Mountain Harbour Hostel, US Highway 19E, trail mile 1,790.1
Miles Walked Today: 18.40
Day Number: 103

At bedtime last night it was clearing and getting cooler. During the night clouds returned, the wind increased and the temperature rose slightly. This set the stage for a day of swirling wind and unsettled fall weather. Finally, late this afternoon, cool, dry air pushed its way through. Tonight, the sky is clear and it is getting cold.

This morning we were up and walking at 7:05am. Jeepman and Catfish remained cocooned in their sleeping bags. But that's excusable. They are real old.

We did not see anyone on today's walk. However, at 4:31pm, we saw our first bear of the day. It was on a steep slope next to the trail where there were a few trash and, maybe, food containers. We heard it scramble and could tell that it was a small bear, possibly small enough to still have Momma around. We walked alertly for the next half-mile or so until we were well away from this area.

At 5:00pm we reached US Highway 19E and walked .3 miles west to Mountain Harbour Hostel where the sign on the office door said: Make Yourself at Home. At 6:30pm, as we were adhering to the sign, we met our second bear of the day, Silver Bear (photo), 67, a section hiker from Knoxville, TN. Silver Bear is a full-time employee at Lowe's in Knoxville. He joined us for the night at the hostel.

We talked trail talk, cleaned up, and got ready to go into Roan Mountain, TN. At 7:20pm Terry Hill, the hostel owner, drove us into town for supper at a Subway (because the local restaurant was closed) and resupply. Then it was back to the hostel for a night's rest (after this report is done).

Today we walked from Moreland Gap Shelter, trail mile 1,771.7, to US Highway 19E, trail mile 1,790.1, a total of 18.4 miles for the day.

May the God and Creator of all that is, was, and ever will be bless all of you.


Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Hello North Carolina
Location For The Night: Roan High Knob Shelter, trail mile 1,805.8
Miles Walked Today: 15.70
Day Number: 104

Mountain Harbour Hostel is a great place to stay. It has all the comforts of home. This morning we ate warmed up breakfast biscuits, said goodbye to Silver Bear, and were on the trail at 8:15am. It was cool, windy and mostly cloudy.

We climbed up to Doll Flats (4,600') and crossed the Tennessee / North Carolina border. But not exactly. At this point the AT, the Eastern Continental Divide ridge, and the TN/NC border become one. The ridge is the border and we will be walking this border-ridge for a long way. Sometimes we'll be in Tennessee, sometimes in North Carolina, and sometimes in both states at once. I asked Flaxseed to take a picture of me at Doll Flats but he declined. There was no sign and no way to know where the border was.

We spent the rest of the day climbing higher and higher. As we ascended the wind increased and the temperature dropped. But, the scenery was exquisite. We were in the Roan Grassy Bald area (photo). These balds are thought to be natural, predating European settlement. The balds themselves are beautiful, and, they provide panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys - some of the best on the AT.

At 4:00pm we passed a field of goats next to the trail. Jamey Donaldson, project leader and chief goatherd for Baa-tanny Goat Project for Grassy Bald Restoration was there herding his goats. The idea is that goats eat plants that are invading the balds, especially Canada Blackberry. We chatted awhile and I took some pictures.

At 5:34pm we arrived at Roan High Knob Shelter (6,285'), the highest shelter on the AT. It is an old log structure with a loft that was formerly a firetower caretaker's cabin.
We ate in a hurry, put on all our clothing and crawled in our sleeping bags. It's cold, windy and getting colder. My hands are freezing as I type so I'm about done for the night.

Today we walked from US Highway 19E, trail mile 1,771.7, to Roan High Knob Shelter, trail mile 1,805.8, a total of 15.7 miles for the day.

God bless you all.


Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Winter Bags
Location For The Night: Cherry Gap Shelter, trail mile 1,821.4
Miles Walked Today: 15.60
Day Number: 105

It was cold in the cloud on top of Roan High Knob last night, probably 33-35 degrees. Cold air whistled through the old log cabin. But, with most of our wardrobes on, we kept reasonably warm. But here's the problem. Reasonably warm is a close cousin to almost cold.

We slept late to let the dripping cloud dissipate and hit the trail at 8:15am. (I know you're probably tired of hearing about dripping clouds, fog, foggy drip, mist, and other similar terms. But, we've lived with a lot of it, and, it does affect our walk. So I feel compelled to report it.)

We had a good walk today. It was cloudy, cool and windy this morning. We both donned sock hats and gloves. This afternoon it became partly sunny and continues to be cool.

At 1:55pm we stopped behind a rock windbreak for lunch. There, partially protected from the cold wind, we discussed a very important subject - winter sleeping bags. We decided it was time to have them sent to us. Flaxseed called his faithful friend, Sherry, in Houston, and I called my son, Glen, in Paducah. Both said they will ship our bags immediately. Thank the Lord for Sherry, Glen and cell phones .

At 5:15pm we rolled in to Cherry Gap Shelter and stopped for the night. Flaxseed pitched his tent. He wants to test it in the cold. I chose to share the shelter with Mountain Man, a local section hiker. It's going to be a cold one again tonight. I'm looking forward to my getting my winter bag.

Today's photo of a lavender fall wildflower was taken this morning. Even this late in the year there are still many beautiful wildflowers along the AT.

Today we walked from Roan High Knob Shelter, trail mile 1,805.8, to Cherry Gap Shelter, trail mile 1,821.4, a total of 15.6 miles for the day.

God bless all of you.


Thursday, October 1, 2009
Surprise Visitors
Location For The Night: River Road, Uncle Johnny's Hostel, trail mile 1,838.4
Miles Walked Today: 17.00
Day Number: 106

Flaxseed and I enjoyed an unusual treat last night and this morning, our first campfire of the trip. Mountain man had it going when we arrived and kept it blazing until well past midnight. He laid up extra firewood for this morning. We stoked the fire and ate breakfast by firelight. A good thing too, because it was cold again last night (probably 38-40 degrees) and the fire seemed to make it warmer.

Fire or not, nocturnal rodents surprised us with a visit. A mouse tried to enter Flax's tent. He fought it off by swatting his tent walls. He thinks they are attracted to food in his beard (and possibly candy he had in his tent). And, for the second time, a mouse got in Flax's black food bag again. All three of our food bags were hung on the same non-guaranteed mouse proof hook in the shelter. The mouse entered Flax's black food bag through holes made by other mice in past. It did not bother his other food bag or mine hanging beside them.

We left camp at 7:20am. It was mild and sunny all day - perfect fall weather.

After an initial climb to the top of Unaka Mountain, the rest of the day was generally downhill with roller coaster bumps thrown in for fun. It was a pleasant day to walk in the woods.

At 2:00pm we ate lunch at Curley Maple Gap Shelter where we called ahead to make a reservation at Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky Hostel near Erwin, TN.

Our afternoon's downhill walk took us alongside rushing mountain streams, some of which we crossed several times on bridges.
The terrain leveled and we crossed the Nolichucky River on River Road and walked into Uncle Johnny's at 4:32pm. Uncle Johnny himself had a cabin waiting for us. I picked up two boxes; a supply box and my cold weather sleeping bag.

We caught the 6:00pm shuttle into Erwin, TN, and ate supper at a Mexican restaurant. Then we went to White's grocery for resupply.

At 7:30pm I looked down a food aisle and saw more surprise visitors; my brother, Ross, and his wife, Kay, were walking toward me with open arms and big grins. They drove all the way from Louisville, Kentucky, just to see me on the AT. What a surprise! I was flabbergasted. We hugged, I found Flaxseed and introduced him, and they drove us back to Uncle Johnny's. They are staying at a local motel and taking us to breakfast in the morning. We invited them hike with us for awhile as we climb out of town. Thanks Ross and Kay.

Today's photo are some of the goats we saw in the Roan Grassy Bald area day before yesterday.

Today we walked from Cherry Gap Shelter, trail mile 1,821.4, to River Road, Uncle Johnny's Hostel, trail mile 1,838.4, a total of 17.0 miles for the day.

May the God of all creation bless you all.


Friday, October 2, 2009
Spirits Revived
Location For The Night: Bald Mountain Shelter, trail mile 1,855.3
Miles Walked Today: 16.90
Day Number: 107

Yesterday I told you that my winter sleeping bag arrived at Uncle Johnny's. But there was a problem. I could not stuff it in the summer bag stuff sack and get it in my pack. It was too big. I felt unprepared and out of control and I don't like this feeling. It makes me fret and I was fretting when Ross and Kay surprised us at the grocery. It put a damper on the way I received them. Brother Ross says I can be ornery at times only he uses another word. I apologized for my uptightness.

Flaxseed knew I was uptight. When we returned to our cabin he calmed me down and volunteered to switch sleeping bags and carry mine in his pack. He is a true friend. But, I could not get it off my mind and tossed and turned through the night. I got up early and tried to stuff the sleeping bag in the pack one more time. I worked up a sweat but it still wouldn't go.

But listen to this. When Ross and Kay arrived at 6:50am to take us to breakfast, Ross said that Uncle Johnny's store was already open. I walked around the corner and there, hanging from the dusty store ceiling, was a compression stuff sack on par with Baby Bear's porridge. It was just right; fit like a glove. Problem solved. I gave thanks to the Lord.

Today's photo is, left to right: Uncle Johnny, Kay and Ross. It was taken in Uncle Johnny's store at about 7:30am today.

Ross and Kay drove us to a locally recommended breakfast spot, the Dairy Ace, where we all ate hearty breakfasts. Flax's and mine, however, were a bit more hearty. Ross picked up the check.

We went back to the hostel, packed our gear, and were on the trail at 8:35am with two new hikers, Ross and Kay. They stayed with us all the way to the top of the first mountain, a 1,500' vertical climb in about 2 1/2 miles. But, beyond that, they lifted and revived our spirits. Both of us enjoyed their visit, their company and their climbing ability. Flaxseed was greatly impressed. Thanks again Ross and Kay.

But there's more. After visiting Erwin's Apple Festival, Ross and Kay picked up a battery for my PDA at Uncle Johnny's (USPS was a day late) and delivered it to Hot Springs, North Carolina, our next trail town. It will be waiting for me when we arrive there on Monday. May I say thanks again.

Thanks also to to Lily and Hope Arterburn, my granddaughters in Paducah, KY, for their pictures, news, and words of love and encouragement. I miss you all too and I'll be home soon.

It was cloudy, windy, cool and threatening all day. It may be clearing tonight, but fog is rolling in and it is getting cold. My winter sleeping bag feels mighty good.

At 5:30pm we terminated today's walk at Bald Mountain Shelter (5,100'). It is two level, 10-person shelter. Five weekend hikers are here, all on level one. Flaxseed and I are on the second level by ourselves.

Today we walked from River Road, Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky Hostel, trail mile 1,838.4, to Bald Mountain Shelter, trail mile 1,855.3, a total of 16.9 miles for the day.

May the Supreme God of the universe bless you as you trust in His only begotten Son, the Lord Jesus Christ.


Saturday, October 3, 2009
Big Bald Banding
Location For The Night: Flint Mountain Shelter, trail mile 1,874.2
Miles Walked Today: 18.90
Day Number: 108

It was cold last night, around 40 degrees. My winter sleeping bag kept me warm and cozy. We ate breakfast in our sleeping bags, packed up and started our walk at 7:20am. It was cool, windy and sunny all day, another perfect day for a walk in the woods.

At 8:10am near the top Big Bald we met another group of volunteers studying raptors. Raptor counting and raptor study must be the latest thing in these mountains. I reported on a group in Pennsylvania and we've seen two or three others since then. Most use binoculars to sight and count the birds. This group, www.bigbaldbanding.com, had nets set up to catch and band raptors. They did not have a brochure so I'm not sure about the purpose of the banding and study but Tedi, Mark and Tina (left to right in photo) were excited about their project. And why not? It beats eating an Egg McMuffin at McDonald's on Saturday morning. Doesn't it?

I received an email from Gary, my dentist in Paducah. He enjoys reading my reports and misses them on days I can't find a broadband signal. He said he couldn't believe dental floss failed to hold my shoe together. I told him they ought to make it out of steel, but wondered if it would be hard on 67 year-old teeth.

Today's walk was relatively easy with no big climbs. We arrived at Flint Mountain Shelter at 5:35pm and called it a day. Joining us in the shelter tonight are Not Far, 45, a mother of three from Raleigh, NC, and Thunderbird, 25, a lawyer from Memphis, TN. Thunderbird is a speed hiker. He walks 30 miles or more a day, day after day. He started at Mount Katahdin on July 31.

Today we walked from Bald Mountain Shelter, trail mile 1,855.3, to Flint Mountain Shelter, trail mile 1,874.2, a total of 18.9 miles for the day.

God bless you all.


Records 101 to 110 of 129

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